Thermal Springs of Mataranka

On the road again...  We have just left Mataranka where we spent three nights at the Territory Manor (oh it sounds grand doesn't it - pity it was just a caravan park).  It was 713 km from Barkly Homestead to Mataranka but we did it in 7 hours, thanks to fairly impressive roads and a 130 kph speed limit.

First thing on the agenda on our first morning was the Barramundi feeding at 9.30 at the dam in the park.  These barra were about 1m long and Ben and Emma stood out in the water and hand feed them a piece of pilchard each.  Very funny to watch.  This was followed by massive scones with jam and cream then a bike ride to Bitter Springs to work that off.  This thermal spring was about 3 km down the road and we were very impressed when we got there, the water was a constant 32 degrees and once you got in the water, the current would take you downstream about 70 m then you got out at the steps, walked around to the beginning and did it again.  Or if you were Ben you swam against the current then floated back down.  The thought of the scones even guilted me into doing in that once and when I felt I was struggling I would look up at Ben and the ease in which he was cruising and I would keep pushing on!

Bitter Springs

In the afternoon we drove to the other thermal spring - Mataranka Thermal Pool and have to admit to being thoroughly disappointed at first glance!  Having had so much fun at the rather natural Bitter Springs, this looked like a man-made swimming pool for the over 60s.  The pool was full of the grey nomads and unfortunately for them, the Millers had arrived and their peace was about to be disturbed, there is no gentle relaxing for my three in a swimming pool!  We managed to tough it out for about an hour or so, before getting back in the car for a drive through the national park.  The next day it was back to the Bitter Springs, this time with goggles to get a closer look - the water was crystal clear and we were even rewarded with witnessing a tortoise going about his business.  Magic place..

Cow paying his respects

In the afternoon we went in search of the Elsey Cemetery, Mataranka being the site of the Elsey station from the book, We of the Never Never.  I am halfway through this at the moment, fabulous to read while you are in the area, and the cemetery has now given away a bit of the ending but very interesting to see and bring it all to life.  The road to the cemetery was an interesting drive with many gaunt cows trying to dissuade us from getting down there and it was funny to see them wandering around among the grave sites.

Emma whipping up Choc mousse

Another day down, and we are nearly 2/3rds of the way through this trip.  Next stop is Litchfield National Park, where we can hopefully get in a bit more swimming and enjoy some waterfalls and lovely scenery, we couldn't be having a better time.

RED DIRT

Where was I up to...

Charters Towers, our first stop along the Overlanders Way.  Now I was approaching this leg of the journey with some trepidation - the long drive from Townsville to 'Three Ways' in NT but the scenery has actually made this trip far more enjoyable than I had envisaged.  There are termite mounds galore, the beautiful red dirt (which I will come to despise in a month I am sure),and  the varying landscape while consistent in its vastness.  The road also kept us entertained when there were sections which caught the uninitiated completely off guard and had our trailer airborne and was responsible for breaking one of my coffee cups!

Our stop after Charters Towers was Richmond, a place I had never heard of but had a fabulous history of its own.  Supposedly many millions of years ago an inland sea flowed through here and when it stopped flowing there were many fossils of marine dinosaurs left behind.  This has led to many cattle farmers finding extraordinary fossils on their property and we visited Kronosaurus Korner to check some of them out.  Ben and Emma were particularly fascinated with the Kronosaurus Queenslandicus - an 11m dinosaur which had teeth the size of bananas.  His skeleton was taken to the USA but the replica in the photo below supposedly depicts its actual size.

Kronosaurus

Emma and Ben at the water park at Lake Fred Tritton

 After the museum we walked, skateboarded around the Fred Tritton lake next to our caravan park and the kids cooled down in the water park which was much smaller than they had expected but that didn't stop them having fun if the giggling and carrying on where anything to go by.  We went back to the campsite as the sun was setting, then had another walk around the 1.2 km lake by night when the path was all lit up.

Pink galahs at the lake

Back on the road and this was worse than yesterdays which was unfortunate because now it was teeming with rain.  We were both a little tense and relaxed considerably when the skies cleared hours later and so did the roads.  We had stopped in at Cloncurry for lunch, rain still teeming, and to check out the John Flynne gallery which detailed his work establishing the Royal Flying Doctor Service and the School of the Air.  By about 4 we arrived at Mt Isa to freezing temperatures and a howling wind.  Not remotely what I had expected.  The mountains leading in to 'the Isa' were spectacular and we enjoyed looking around the unique town yesterday.  Another of the amazing sights of the last few days has been the flocks of Wedge-tailed Eagles, they are a delight to watch.

Xstrata mine at Mt Isa

A fair way from home

Wedge-tailed eagle in flight

Red rocks

 Today was pretty exciting as we entered the Northern Territory.  The first thing we noticed was that the speed limit went from 110 to 130, not that anyone was doing that on these roads, and the other was that almost instantly the trees disappeared and that completely flat barren landscape that I had expected a few days prior was really evident now.  The greenery did return as well as a glimpse at some beautiful wildflowers.  We have stopped for the night at Barkley Roadhouse and can't wait for the next instalment in this trip.

Half way through the trip and our boy turns 11!

The week at Palm Cove finished up today and with that signifies the end of the trip up the East Coast.  We had a lovely week, and were very happy with our choice of Palm Cove as our base.  It was only about 20 mins drive from Cairns where we went a few times, mainly to swim in the Lagoon (it's man-made so no chance of crocs or stingers), but also close enough for an easy drive up to Mossman Gorge in the Daintree where we swim in the crystal clear water and walked through the rainforest and  had a look around Port Douglas on the way back.  The drive from Palm Cove to Port Douglas is actually very reminiscent of the Great Ocean Road, it was about the only stretch we have done where you could see the coast for any distance. 

Ben and Emma in the Lagoon on Cairns Esplanade

and at Mossman Gorge, Daintree NP

On the weekend we went up to the Kuranda markets, ate the most delicious crepes, took a look at the Barron Gorge then the kids and I came back to Cairns on the Kuranda Scenic Railway while Paul drove the car back.  It was a 2 hour train trip and we enjoyed the history and the views, particularly as we passed Stony Creek Falls (the one you see in all the brochures).  Then on Sunday we went on a 20 km bike ride to neighbouring Kewarra Beach. Once there we rode along the beach for a bit (fast so the crocs wouldn't get us) and then back along the road to Palm Cove.

No longer Ben 10

Yesterday was of course a very special day when Ben turned 11 and despite the miserable weather (yes it was raining again) we all had very enjoyable day.  Ben helped us pick out a skateboard from Cairns a few days earlier so he got to try that out at the Cairns Skate Park (supposedly the biggest in Australia), the kids then played on the rock climbing walls and in the playground before back to the ranch for lunch and birthday cake.  Ben was rapt to receive cards and presents from the family that he had not expected and has never had so many phone calls in his life.  We finished the day with a beautiful dinner at Portabello Italian Restaurant in Palm Cove where Emma finished her massive pizza and proceeded to finish off Ben's as well - now that was unexpected.  Our meals were all delicious and capped off a fantastic birthday and amazing journey that has seen us travel about 6000 km up the East Coast of Australia in 6 and a half weeks.  The next phase is a mere 3000 kms in about a week aaggh.

We have travelled the first leg to Charters Towers, (even travelled on Ray Jones drive for a little of the way) a place much larger than we expected and we are in a nice caravan park where they even have a campfire and a bit of a sing-a-long.  Ben and Emma were very keen to join in until they realised that the youngest person there would have been at least their grandparents age and decided against it.  A swim and a play on the jumping pillow was more fun.

beaches, rainforests, waterfalls and Spanish castles

It has been an interesting few days (not that any of them haven't been from the beginning).  We chose to go to Rollingstone after Airlie Beach.  This is a very little town and all we saw of it was the caravan park which was directly on the palm lined beach.  It was the perfect place to spend Mother's Day when I was served breakfast in bed, looking out to the sun coming up over the water, then spent the rest of the day reading and swimming.  The most relaxing day of the trip so far.

the sun rising over Rollingstone

 From Rollingstone we opted for a night at Paronella Park near the Atherton Tablelands.  This was an amazing place created by Jose Paranella back in the 1930s, a man with unbelievable vision, passion and businesss sense.  He built a spanish castle amongst rainforest, next to a beautiful waterfall which powers the whole area - the first hydropower in QLD, and landscaped the area to perfection.  The admission price also covered site fees for 1 night in the adjoining van park so we stayed overnight, went on a day tour, then another at night with all the buildings lit up, then wandered into the park at around 7am the next morning, almost having the place to ourselves.  The current owners were as inspiring as the original with all sorts of plans for restoration and have dealt with numerous floods and two severe cyclones and spoke of the benefits of these cyclones.  Taking 100 truckloads of debris from the park after cyclone Larry vistas were revealed to them that Jose had created but the rainforest had obscured.

Ulysses butterfly

the original Cafe, waterfall in background, fountain and tennis court in front

by night

Mena falls and the original picnic ground, fish, eels and turtles abound in the river

Water lilies - my favourite

Butterflies everywhere

  

 The drive from Rollingstone to Paranella park was interesting in itself, we drove through the towns of Tully, Cardwell, Mission Beach all severely affected by Cyclone Yasi and even after all this time you could see the affects on the trees and in the shiny new roofs.  It was obviously a disastrous experience but it was great to see the recovery of all these places. 

Our drive from Paranella Park led us through the Atherton Tablelands, checking out more waterfalls and gorgeous rolling hills and creeks and great views.  Our destination was (as usual) undecided and on arrival at Cairns led to the most indecision yet.  We ended up half an hour up the road at Palm Cove and loved it and its central location to this area so we have booked in for a whole week!

ahh the Whitsundays

From beautiful 1770 we did our first one night stopover at a place called Clairview.  Between Rocky and Mackay we knew there wouldn't be many options but this was right in the middle of the 1770 and Airlie Beach where we were heading, it was right on the beach and only a minute from the highway - perfect.  Well it was an experience. Signs on the toilets suggesting that children under 16 should not be unaccompanied and bathroom door should be locked on entering and leaving after hours for your own safety had me a little on edge but the park was clean, people were friendly (even if many of them were a little lacking in the teeth department) and it was situated directly on a very picturesque beach.  The tide was out at least 70 m in the evening, great for exploring all the rockpools, and lapping at the shore overnight.  Rainbow lorikeets, eagles and others were in abundance and of course the brush turkeys were roaming around.  Still we were out by 8am the morning ready to hit the Whitsundays.

Rockpools at Clairview Beach

Sunrise at Clairview

View from Shute Harbour

By lunchtine we were at Airlie Beach and admiring the stunning views of the Whitsundays.  It is 26 years since I have been here and while the resort we stayed in then has aged somewhat, this place is just as fabulous as I remember.  After some indecision about caravan parks, we opted for a very resort style Big4 with two waterslides, minigolf, jumping pillow, tabletennis, gokarts etc etc. We may not have to go anywhere.  Our first afternoon was spent checking out some of these facilities, particularly a welcome dip in the pool after yet another set-up. The next day we rode into the main centre along a boardwalk by the water's edge most of the way ending at a man-made lagoon where Ben and Emma had a ball.  It was then back to the ranch for lunch, pool etc and an outdoor movie in the evening.

Ben and Emma at Lagoon, Airlie Beach

The next day (thursday) has been voted as our favourite day so far - a trip on an almost inflatable boat which took us on a tour of the Whitsunday Islands including about an hour and a half of the best snorkelling I have ever done and lunch and chill out at Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Island.  This beach had the whitest sand you are going to find anywhere!  I didn't get to take any photos here as the ride out and back was a wild ride almost surfing the waves and there was some concern about getting my camera wet.  So much fun though.

Looking back to Airlie Beach

Our last day in Airlie was a bit of a chill out - more swimming, a bit of a drive, more swimming, mini golf and a swim in the dark - the highlight of Ben and Emmas' day.

It is now Saturday and time to move on, where to - not quite sure yet........

Sun, sand, surf and dolphins

Nearly a week has gone by and apart from the one afternoon and morning of rain it has been sun, glorious sun and lots of beach activity.  Divine.  Rainbow beach was glorious and as soon as we had set up on Tuesday it was down to the beach to have a great play in the waves.  We could see all the coloured sand in the distance, hence the name and watching the sun go down as we swam was pretty great, especially given that our campsite was almost right on the beach. 

The next morning we got up with the birds and drove to Tin Can Bay to feed a couple of wild IndoPacific Humpback dolphins who are allowed to be hand fed at 8 am each morning at that spot.  Unfortunately they decided not to turn up that day, but instead we got to witness one of my highlights so far - a dolphin very proudly showing off her 5 week old baby!  We were standing shin deep in the water and these dolphins swam around us for about half an hour - priceless.

That afternoon we went to the Carlo Sandblow, so named by Captain Cook after a crewman named Carlo.  It was an enormous expanse of sand and we had fun trying to slide down the steep slopes but even those with the proper equipment were struggling so we didn't get far but had fun trying.

The next day (Thursday?) was beautiful in the morning so more swimming and relaxing then just as we thought we would get on our bikes and ride along the beach to get a closer look at the coloured sand the rain came down and persisted throughout the afternoon and through the night and the next morning leading to another soggy pack-up. 

Compared to last time this was a breeze and the tarp has been such a help, it also helps that the rain was nowhere near as heavy.  We drove out of Rainbow Beach, out of the rain and after a stop at the Bundaberg Barrel where we went on a tour to learn about the brewing of Bundaberg soft drinks we got to the Town of 1770, near Agnes Water.  We have been to some beautiful places on this trip but this would have to be my favourite so far (if it wasn't for my nemesis 'the sand fly').

This happened to be the Labour Day long weekend in QLD so there were lots of people around, including some like Ben and Emma who were keen to get on a surfboard for a surfing lesson at Agnes Water.  They all spent about 3 hours trying to get up on the boards in some fairly big waves.  Our two were the only ones who could get up with any consistency, but they were possibly the only Australians and certainly the only ones with any experience.  One Frenchman even managed to snap his board!

After an exhausting morning watching the children surf, we went on a bike-ride around 1770, passed the monument where Captain Cook set foot on the mainland and out to the point.  I am constantly impressed with the stamina of these kids, but there are rarely any complaints.  The next day we went to the market and then to the beach from our caravan park.  I could get used to this....

Some photos from around 1770:

A New Month, a New Adventure

Well May has begun and we have just arrived at Rainbow Beach on the Sunshine Coast after having spent 4 and a half very entertaining days on the Gold Coast.  Paul and I thought we would give the kids a bit of fun at Dreamworld and Whitewater World, but in the end it was very hard to tell who enjoyed themselves the most. 

From Broken Head to the Treasure Island Holiday Park it was only a 2 hour drive and after a record pack-up and even faster set-up we surprised the kids with a visit to the parks on our day of arrival.  They took us straight to the Hydrocoaster, a cross between rollercoaster and water slide (as its name suggests) and it was an hour of fun from there on the 'Bro' - much like the aqua-racer at Adventure Park and the Rip (my favourite).  Whitewater world closed at 4 so it was across to Dreamworld to get a quick glimpse of what we were in for.  The front looked exactly like I remembered it from almost 30 years ago and the shops inside too.  Unfortunately the only ride I remember (the Log Ride) was closed for maintenance but it did look as though it needed it.  Every thing else looked fresh and new and got the blood pumping for a bit of an adrenaline rush.

The next day, Friday was raining but we were undeterred, equipped with raincoats and umbrellas we arrived at Dreamworld as it opened and got straight into a few rides.  The rain worked in our favour as the queues were almost non existent and we enjoyed the Mad Madagscar Jam, Dodgem cars, Avalanche, Laser Skirmish, Reef Sea Diver and Emma braved the Cyclone rollercoaster and the Tower of Terror II with me.  Swore she was never doing that one ever again (but it was a pretty good buzz).

Saturday was one out of a box! It was bucketing down in the morning but again undeterred we figured we were going to get wet anyway so we donned our bathers and set off to WhiteWater World.  The conditions were so wet that at one point we were the only people in the whole park - and we had an absolute hoot!  We were racing from one ride to another and in almost 2 hours we had been on everything several times and decided we needed a warm shower.  Our favourite ride was the Green Room (Paul, Emma and I) and the Rip for Ben.

That same afternoon we made our final adjustments to our tent and headed to Brisbane to watch the footy.  We got drowned getting into the ground despite ponchos but had undercover seats to watch a great display by the Cats.  I felt slightly (or a lot) ill during the third quarter when I had a quick look at the radar to see that the Gold Coast had received 100mm of rain during just the last 3 hours.  The drive home through more torrential rain was a little daunting as we had no idea what state our tent would be on our return.  We couldn't believe that all was well when we got back at midnight, and we were so impressed with our tent and tarp set-up managing to withstand the Gold Coast's heaviest falls in the last 7 years that we had to have a drink to celebrate.

Sun was shining again on Sunday and on Monday (what's going on?) and we were back to the Parks both days.  My highlight yesterday was watching Ben and Emma on the Flowrider where they were riding an artificial wave and did a great job on body boards, cutting some moves!

A three and a half hour drive today got us to Rainbow Beach where we will have very different experiences but hopefully some fun times.  Paul Ben and Emma have already had a swim in the beach and we should be able to sneak another one in before the rain is expected again on Thursday....

A couple of photos from Dreamworld (none great as I didn't take my proper camera as I knew I would be too busy going upside down to take any photos)