Macdonnell Ranges

A bit delayed but here it is...

This last week has been icy, but oh so spectacular.  Every time I have decided which I is my favourite place I go to a new favourite place.  The Macdonnell ranges will now have a special place in all our hearts.  From Trephina Gorge in the East Macdonnell ranges to all the gaps and gorges in the West we just wished we had more time to visit them all.

Trephina Gorge

Even Alice Springs was a surprise.  The first surprise came when we turned up to the first caravan park at about 4 pm and for the first time on this trip were told that they didn’t have a site for us.  Fortunately the next one was more accommodating but it turned out that they didn’t knock anyone back.  There were caravans parked in every available space even including  the roadways.   We had expected a town much like Katherine but were very moderately impressed with both design and cleanliness.  Our first full day we had a wander through town – Ben was on a mission to spend his Dymocks voucher he received for his birthday (this was the first town to have a Dymocks store).   We found it in a shopping centre, he bought his 3 books and has finished one and a half already.  After grabbing some lunch we drove to Trephina Gorge in the West Macdonnell ranges.  A one and a half hour walk took us to a lookout and then back through the gorge.  There wasn’t a lot of water but it was absolutely stunning.  The ghost gums against the red rocks, the yellow spinifex and the greeny brown colour of the water was a feast for the eyes.  On the way back to Alice we stopped in at both Emily and Jesse Gap and admired some more rock art.

Friday we got on our bikes and rode from the grave of John Flynne just outside Alice to the Simpson’s Gap.  This was a 17 km bike trail, really well laid out and relatively flat that took us alongside the West Macdonnell ranges with numerous birds and changing scenery to keep us entertained.  Since it was a one way track, Paul and Ben rode to the 10 km mark and then back to the car while Emma and I rode to the Gap.  Ben was very keen to do the full 34 km but Emma and I didn’t think we could wait that long for lunch.  This was probably our coldest day of the trip, 16 degrees and rather windy.  We had expected cold nights (and we have definitely had those) but I had thought the days would be warmer; the plus is that it is always a blue sky and when the wind drops you warm up again.

Emma approaching Simpsons Gap

Ormiston  waterhole

Saturday we packed up again and drove to Ormiston Gorge – an absolute stunner.  It was a National Park campground and again we were really impressed with set-up and couldn’t have been more impressed with the view from our campsite.  After setting up we took a walk to the lookout (freezing up there so didn’t spend too long there) and down through the gorge.  It makes me laugh now that in the beginning a day that we had packed up and set up we would be a little weary but now an hour and a half walk was nothing after getting our new home organised.  That night we got another surprise when the lantern we have been using for 11 weeks (our main source of light) decided not to work so in this place with very little lighting, we had to rely on our torches , headlamp etc.  All the more fun and it was sooo cold anyway that we went to bed (complete with thermals, beanies etc) just after the kids.  I have no idea how we are going to revert back to normal sleeping habits when we get home.

Dinnertime at the Gorge

The next day we headed off to do the Pound Walk – a 8 km loop walk which involved a swim at the end! We weren’t looking forward to that part since it was only about 10 degrees now and the water was absolutely freezing.  We walked for about an hour and reached the lookout to the Pound, it reminded us a lot of the Ngorongoro Crater in Africa (minus the animals of course) and was incredibly impressive.  We discussed our options with another group up there and we all came to the conclusion that it was far too cold to go through waist deep water and instead we all returned to camp the way we had come instead of completing the loop.  That afternoon we checked out Glen Helen Gorge and the ‘Resort’ there.  We were really pleased we had opted for Ormiston as a place to stay but this was nice to have a look at – the Resort was pretty derelict though.

Picking skimming stones at Glen Helen Gorge

Monday we took a little drive East and visited the Ochre Pits, an area where the colours in the rock were amazing and the aboriginals still collect their ochre from here for their paintings.  We then went walking to the Inarlanga Pass, a 3 hour hike partly along the top of the range, the views on these walks are beyond description.  We then took a look at Serpentine Gorge and finally back to camp for a 3 pm lunch. Ben was getting a little desperate by then (we had taken all our goodies with us to cook up lunch straight after our walk just forgot the matches..).  Some more time down at the Ormiston waterhole that afternoon and it was time to start planning for the next thing…

Ben and Emma on the way back from the Pass

Emma and I at Serpentine Gorge

On the way back to Alice tonight to get some supplies (and do lots of washing), we saw a camel wandering beside the road.  There has certainly been no shortage of wildlife wherever we have been.

Banka Banka and the Marbles

From Katherine we really were heading south.  We stopped at Daly Waters Pub on the way and had a nice lunch and a good look around.  The pub was a classic.  Emma thought the bras and undies hanging from the roof were disgusting, but was fascinated by all the other collections around the place.  What a marketing bonanza though – the caravan park was packed by lunchtime and there were people everywhere with nowhere else to go but the pub.

Inside the Daly Waters Pub

It was then on to Banka Banka, an old cattle station where we pulled up at 5 pm and told we had an hour and a half to set up and have dinner before a 6.30 show by a bush poet around the campfire out the back.  I have never seen the kids so helpful with setting up and Ben even cooked a delicious chicken curry (pity I put too much spice in for him and he was the only one who couldn’t finish it, oops).  Off to the campfire where we were thoroughly entertained for just over an hour.  Fortunately the jokes weren’t too blue for young ears but they were a little too true when he was talking about the grey nomads and how they liked to leave at 5.30 am walking everyone up around them.  It was interesting that no-one set off before dawn the next morning!

One of the last to leave as always at 9 am we made our way to Karlu Karlu otherwise known as the Devils Marbles where we had morning tea and had a walk around these amazing prehistoric rock formations.  Lots of photos later we drove a little further down the road to Wycliffe Well, a place known for its UFO sightings (well they didn’t appear to have much else), quick lunch then its on the road again towards Alice Springs.

Nitmiluk (otherwise known as Katherine Gorge or fitness camp)

We spent the most fabulous three days at Nitmiluk.  We arrived on the Friday just in time for a long swim in the beautifully landscaped swimming pool (the water was surprisingly much warmer than in Jabiru) and a relax.  There are lots of the orange flowering ‘Wooly Butts’ around which means tons of the coloured lorikeets, bower birds and lots of small Agile Wallabies, friendly enough to wander around our chairs.

Agile Wallaby with inquisitive joey in pouch

Saturday morning we had pancakes by the pool before heading off on an 8 km walk along the escarpment towards the Southern Rockhole and Pat’s Lookout.  It was 33 degrees around the campsite and reported to be 37 on the escarpment. It felt it.  It was a beautiful walk though and the lookout which looked out onto the first gorge was stunning.  It was then a steep decline to the rockhole and after a good inspection and no crocs found we felt we were safe to cool off in the clear waterhole.  We had lunch there, then back up the rocks and towards the visitor centre, another lookout and back down again to the campground.  It took about 3 and a half hours minus the stops and we were well ready for another swim in the pool.

Sunday was one of my favourite days so far but also my most tiring.  We went canoeing down the first three gorges in two double canoes, which we collected at 8.20 am and returned 8 hours later.  The first gorge was amazingly beautiful and took about 1 hour and a quarter to paddle to the end of.  We then got to leave our yellow canoes there and collect a green one at the beginning of the second gorge.  This was even more spectacular than the first and we felt dwarfed by the scale of these giant multi-coloured rock walls.  Another hour of paddling and we were at the end of the 2nd where there was no canoe waiting on the other side, we had to carry our canoes across the rocks to the 3rd gorge.  We made this look as awkward as possible but lucky we had two to carry so we made the second portage look a little easier.  The third gorge was a little shorter so it didn’t take long to get to the large rocks separating 3rd and 4th gorges which was our end point and also our lunch stop where we could sit and look out to the 4^th gorge and also watch the freshwater croc we had spotted as we turned up (at least we hope he is a freshie) while we ate.

On the way back we banked our canoes and stopped in at the Lily ponds where we showered under the waterfall amidst a bright rainbow.  We then paddled back at our portage point where Emma and I watched another couple transport their canoe easily down the rapid so we followed their lead and with minimal help from the boys got our canoe where it needed to be.  Unfortunately Paul and Ben had a little more trouble and ended up getting their canoe well jammed between the rock and overhanging branch.  Ever helpful Ben rocked the boat to get it unstuck but instead managed to tip them both out and water quickly filled the canoe.  Emma began panicking, I was trying to get a good photo and couldn’t stop laughing but had to bank our canoe again so I could swim out (fully clothed) to help.  It took Ben a little while to see the funny side since he was feeling responsible but I thought it was hysterical (and all Paul’s fault anyway).  Back on track and a stop at Butterfly canyon then onto the junction between 2nd and 1st.  As we were collecting our yellow canoes to make the final leg we chanced upon a local and member of Nitmiluk Tours staff who graciously took us to the other side of the river in his tinnie and gave us a personal tour of the art work on the rocks there.  This was fantastic but it did mean that when we did get back in our canoes the time was 3.45 and we were supposed to return our canoes by 4.30 (or was it 4?) so it was a power struggle home and that night Paul and I were absolutely spent. But what a great day.

Ben at the waterfall at Lily Ponds

Monday was spent at Edith Falls, about an hours drive to the north of Nitmiluk, and more walking (to take my mind of my aching shoulders).  As always the walk was worth it (only 2 hours this time) and the pools at the top of the falls were so much fun.  We jumped in and let the current take us, jumped out and did it again and again.

Back to the campground and in the pool with the realisation that this may be our last swim for a long while…..

Kakadu and lots more crocs

Getting closer to being up to date again...

Firstly I am pleased that we didn't listen to those who tried to tell us this place was Kakadon't.  It was only about 2 hours drive from Mary River but in that time we saw a large crocodile sunning himself on the bank of a river we crossed over, a dingo sauntering along the side of the road, a wild pig scurrying off the road, plenty of kites (the birds I had initially thought were eagles), and a large reptile slithering off the road.  Whether he was a snake or large lizard we were undecided.

We made our way to the Merl Campground (close to Ubirr) where there were fortunately lots of fabulous roomy sites for us to choose from and the tent was set up yet again.  Full walls this time as the mosquitoes were supposedly dreadful around here and we were very grateful around dusk.

Haven't had the walls up for a while

After lunch we headed up to the Ubirr art site and were really amazed by the ancient rock art. The picture of the tassie tiger really surprised us, none of us realised they were initially on the mainland as well as in tassie.  Emma's favourite was the picture warning others not to steal (right) while Ben and I loved the food wall in the main gallery (below left) where fish after fish was depicted along with turtles, wallabies, crocodiles etc etc.  Some of these paintings are believed to be up to 40 000 years old.  Mind blowing.  There was also a painting from about 150 years ago of a white man with big boots and his hands in his pocket.  Another surprise was the painting incredibly high on the roof of this gallery which is believed to have been created by the mimi spirits who brought down the rock, drew themselves and placed the rock back. 

The Main Gallery - used to be a large living area

We also took a walk to the top of all the rocks to find the most amazing panoramic view of both Arnhem Land and Kakadu.

East Alligator River near Cahill's Crossing

The next day we rode our bikes to the Border Store for an ice-cream and then to Cahill's Crossing.  This is the only road into Arnhem Land in the area and when we arrived there was about 30 cm of water over the road and we watched a few cars cross comfortably.  There were a few fishermen standing in the water (our Ranger had labelled these 'temporary Australians') but we couldn't spot any crocs.  We did however see lots of kites, a shark (that got the fisherman out of the water for a bit), lots of archer fish and the East Alligator river flowing towards the sea.  After getting some lunch at our campsite we came back to the crossing at around 3 pm and spent a very entertaining hour watching the crossing at high tide.  The water was up to around 80cm and now going in the other direction and we saw only one car cross but we did see 2 freshwater crocs on the opposite bank (the second one pushing the first off his position on the bank) a fisherman catch a very large barramundi and later a large estuarine croc darting across the river (that got a couple of fishermen out).  We didn't get a great view of him so hopped on the bikes and rode a little way north to the boat ramp where we saw lots of large fish leaping out of the water, it then didn't take long before we saw the big croc and it certainly didn't long for us to get back on our bikes when we was coming towards us...

A bit close for comfort

That night we went back up to Ubirr to watch the sun set from the fabulous vantage point and then back to Merl where a ranger came to give an interesting talk/slide show about all the rock art.  After admiring the magnificent array of stars it was off to bed for all.

Sunset from the top of Ubirr, looking over Kakadu

In need of some powering up (our fridge battery doesn’t last long in the heat), we drove onto Jabiru to stay at the Aurora Kakadu Lodge.  A large lush grassy site just opposite the pool and lots of other kids Ben and Emmas’ age meant everybody was happy, even the mosquito population was much smaller here.  A drive around the town of Jabiru was an eye-opener and a little underwhelming as was the fact that it was a public holiday today so the only supermarket was closed.  Fortunately the BP service station had lots of supermarket items as well as pizzas, so it was pizza for tea.

Namarrgon

Tuesday we headed off to the Bowali visitor centre to learn some more about the area then to the Nourlangie Rock Art Sites.  Emma was very keen to see Namarrgon, the lightning man and wasn’t disappointed.  Namarrgon was supposedly married to the Rainbow serpent and he was responsible for the thunder and lightning at the end of the dry season and their children were the Leichart grasshoppers (brilliant red coloured).

Mardugal boat ramp - don't think I would be game

Wednesday was spent near Yellow Water, we had planned to camp at Mardugal campground near there but decided we couldn’t be bothered with the extra set-up and stayed at Kakadu Lodge and did the day trip.  After seeing the campground we were pleased with our decision as it wasn’t as nice as Merl.  We first visited the Warradjan Culture Centre which we were really impressed with.  It was made in collaboration with the local aboriginal elders and very tastefully gave a great insight into their culture.  After a bit of lunch we made our way to Mardugal campground where we tentatively walked around to Mardugal billabong.  We got very close to the water a number of times and never did feel too comfortable, we have seen too many crocs to relax around the waters’ edge. 

Mardugal billabong

Home Billabong

 After that we went to the Cooinda where we had a drink by the bar while the kids pretended they were guests and swam in the pool with friends they had made at Kakadu Lodge before we went on a ranger-guided walk to Home Billabong.  We were a little disappointed in the beginning because we thought we were walking about 1.8 km to Yellow Water but instead walked about 5 mins to the back of Cooinda resort to the Home Billabong.  However, Emily our guide was lovely and we saw yet another croc, lots of birds and the sun going down over the water.  We were still hopeful that the Yellow water boardwalk which has been closed since the wet season will open before we leave.  That night while we were having dinner a mangy looking dingo thought he might like to share our dinner and came right into our verandah area – one visitor I haven’t appreciated.  Paul flexed his muscles, the dingo realised he didn’t stand a chance and we didn’t see him again!!

Thursday was a mixed bag – we made the call not to go anywhere, the kids felt like a day in the pool and managed to make some new friends and I had some work to do.  It was one day that I regretted bringing my work with me, a frustrating morning spent using up all my energy, data allowance and phone calls only to make my software work less effectively than before!!!  After lunch I gave up and decided to enjoy the sunshine with the others, played pool, had a drink by the bar and felt like I was on holidays again. 

Friday we were leaving Kakadu, had a last look to see if the Yellow Water Boardwalk was open yet (it was due to open anytime) but no luck and it was off to Katherine Gorge.

Mary River

June 9 and 10 were spent at Mary River, about halfway between Darwin and Jabiru.  We were disappointed to miss out on a camping site at Litchfield NP so we thought we would be a bit closer to Kakadu to get the site we were after.  It was a good call because the Mary River Wilderness Retreat and Camping Ground was beautiful.  It was set on about 3 acres with lots of grass, trees and very close to the River.  The large saltwater (sorry, estuarine) crocodile sunning himself on the opposite bank meant that we didn't wander too close to the water but it was pretty nonetheless.  There were loads of wallabies roaming around, loads of birds and a very relaxing environment.  It was even hotter here than Darwin so again lots of time in the pool, a few bushwalks (very eerie when you got close to the river or near one of the many billabongs - we do not yet have the blaise attitude that a lot of other tourists have) and a fair bit of reading and boardgames.

We were warned when we arrived that it would be very noisy on the Friday night because the 'Top End Folk Festival' was starting then.   We did contemplate hanging around a bit longer so that we could check that out but when by 4 o'clock on the Friday the park still looked like it had the previous day we thought we may as well stick to original plan and head to Kakadu.  There was a bit of activity that night with a few people playing their music and lots of extra tents but not enough to encourage us to pay $85 each to partake in the festival.

walked across the swing bridge very quickly

Plenty of these guys around

Going for the cowgirl look

Ducks by the billabong

Lazy Days in Darwin

We have just spent a lovely 6 nights in Darwin (or 20 km south of Darwin to be exact, in Howard Springs).  We originally planned to stay 4 but couldn't fit everything it and the weather was too nice to leave.  (this was written a few days ago, but we have been without reception for a few days to post it)

Arriving Friday june 1 to a cold snap in Darwin terms (it was about 29 degrees) we arrived at our caravan park in Howard Springs - there are no caravan parks within about 20 km of the city so this was one of the closest.  After setting up we took a drive into the city and were all very impressed. We haven't seen a capital city since Brisbane (and it was pelting down there so didn't see much of that) but this is a really pretty, well laid out town with views that were far nicer than I expected.  Ben and Emma managed a quick swim at the waterfront then we found a supermarket to get supplies and back to the ranch.

Saturday we hopped on our bikes and rode down to Howard Springs Nature Reserve, about 4 kms down the road, and saw loads of turtles, huge Barramundi and plenty of other fish swimming around.  The water was deemed not suitable for swimming due to water quality but the clarity was still amazing.  The kids had a quick swim in the toddler pool before riding back.  We had lunch then made our way to the Leanyer Recreation Reserve where we were amazed by the water park which reminded us of Adventure Park but was free for all.  This was a great way to beat the heat, a 30 degree day for the second day of winter.

Howard Springs

Lots of water fun

Sunday we took a look at Berry Springs, another gorgeous thermal spring.  The kids swam around in the bath temp water among plenty of fish, including archer fish which were very cool - if you hold something above the water it squirts water at the object thinking it is an insect that it can make drop to the water's surface for lunch.  After our lunch we headed back to Darwin, had a couple of hours in the wave pool at the waterfront then off to the Mindil Markets.  As per "Are We There Yet" we bought our dinner and sat on the beach watching the sun go down.  Ben thought this was the best market he has ever been to.

We were not the only ones to read Are We There Yet?

Monday we didn't really go anywhere, except to the post office to wrongly address a birthday parcel to Aimee and Holly.  Hopefully it will turn up somewhere girls!  The rest of the day was spent reading, swimming in the pool and of course kicking the footy around. 


Tuesday was another fun day!  We took a cruise down the Adelaide River with Morgan as our guide and plenty of saltwater crocodiles as the main attraction.  It was a 'jumping crocodile' cruise and it took about 2 minutes out on the water before a massive croc called Old Tom came towards the boat and was centimetres away from us.  We were instantly wondering what on earth we were doing when this enormous beast was jumping for the offered meat so close to us.  He was even too close to get a decent photo so had to switch to the wide angle lens.  We saw lots more, each very different but all equally scary and dinosaur like.  Ben even had a chance to steer the boat and at one point had us heading straight to a hungry croc.  After the cruise we had a look at Fogg Dam but couldn't walk around because of recent croc sightings - after our cruise there was no way we were ignoring that warning.  I have never seen so many birds in one place before.

I never want to get closer than this!

surfing the waves on the river

One of the girls jumping for some buffalo meat

Wednesday we hopped on the bikes and had a ride around the Darwin coastline.  This was so much nicer than I had imagined - the colours of the water reminded me a lot of Fiji and Airlie Beach, although we weren't remotely tempted to swim here.  Ben stopped to read every information plate about the bombing of Darwin and we were going to go to the military museum at the end of our ride but we rode for so long that by the time we got back we were too hot and chose a swim and drinks instead of more history!

Looking across to Darwin from East Point (great cycle paths)

Lovely Litchfield

A freshwater crocodile lurking

We have not long left Litchfield NP and it definitely lived up to all expectations.  Our first impression was not great, the road through the park was bordered by fairly ordinary scrub and a lot of it was being burnt at the time so not overly attractive, then the camping area we had picked out on the map (Wangi falls campground) was full by the time we got there (Paul blames me, he claims those 3 minutes I spent looking at shorts in Katherine cost us the last site!).  We drove a further 4 km up the road to the Litchfield Tourism Precinct (very laughable title) to find Litchfield Safari Camp, a caravan park that made Clairview look like a Big4.  The kiosk was set up in a shipping container, prices written on a blackboard and only about 2 other tourists in the place.  After some indecision we paid for 2 nights and were rewarded with one of the best sites we have had so far.  We had an enormous area to ourselves complete with fireplace, table, grass, trees, beautiful outlook etc.  After setting up we drove back to Wangi Falls and had a swim at the base of the magnificent waterfalls.  It was a little disconcerting when a fellow tourist ever so helpfully told us there was a crocodile (don't worry it's only a salty, or is it a freshy?) just around the corner.  Even after taking a look and reassuring ourselves that it was a freshwater crocodile and it was far enough away we managed to brave it.  The fact that the water is crystal clear makes it easier. 

That night the kids collected all the firewood and we had our first campfire since Porepunkah and dessert was roast bananas and chocolate - yum.

Wangi Falls

 The next day was falls after falls.  We started at Cascade Falls, had an hour return walk with a swim in the middle, then back to Wangi and a walk to the top of the falls then back in the plunge pool to cool off.  There was no sign of the croc this day, didn't know whether that was good or bad.  We then went back to camp for lunch and then to Tolmer Falls for a look, then Florence Falls - more swimming (massive fish swimming around us) then to Buley Rockholes.  This was the Ben and Emmas' favourite, a series of cascading waterfalls with deep pools in each.  The clarity of the water in every waterhole was phenomenal. From there we went on to see the magnetic termite mounds and that was a little freakish with rows and rows of them all lined up North-South so that they would be exposed to minimum sun.  It was getting rather late by this stage so back to the ranch, watching out as wallabies ran across the road, and another fire - this time it was damper for dessert.

Tolmer Falls

Buley Rockholes

Florence Falls

Ben, Emma and I swimming at the Cascades

View from the beginning of Cascades walk

Magnetic Termite Mounds

This morning we packed up for around the 20th time and set off for Darwin.  We have had a bit of a look round, we have already had a few swims, both here and at the wharf and look forward to a few more days of exploration.