Nitmiluk (otherwise known as Katherine Gorge or fitness camp)

We spent the most fabulous three days at Nitmiluk.  We arrived on the Friday just in time for a long swim in the beautifully landscaped swimming pool (the water was surprisingly much warmer than in Jabiru) and a relax.  There are lots of the orange flowering ‘Wooly Butts’ around which means tons of the coloured lorikeets, bower birds and lots of small Agile Wallabies, friendly enough to wander around our chairs.

Agile Wallaby with inquisitive joey in pouch

Saturday morning we had pancakes by the pool before heading off on an 8 km walk along the escarpment towards the Southern Rockhole and Pat’s Lookout.  It was 33 degrees around the campsite and reported to be 37 on the escarpment. It felt it.  It was a beautiful walk though and the lookout which looked out onto the first gorge was stunning.  It was then a steep decline to the rockhole and after a good inspection and no crocs found we felt we were safe to cool off in the clear waterhole.  We had lunch there, then back up the rocks and towards the visitor centre, another lookout and back down again to the campground.  It took about 3 and a half hours minus the stops and we were well ready for another swim in the pool.

Sunday was one of my favourite days so far but also my most tiring.  We went canoeing down the first three gorges in two double canoes, which we collected at 8.20 am and returned 8 hours later.  The first gorge was amazingly beautiful and took about 1 hour and a quarter to paddle to the end of.  We then got to leave our yellow canoes there and collect a green one at the beginning of the second gorge.  This was even more spectacular than the first and we felt dwarfed by the scale of these giant multi-coloured rock walls.  Another hour of paddling and we were at the end of the 2nd where there was no canoe waiting on the other side, we had to carry our canoes across the rocks to the 3rd gorge.  We made this look as awkward as possible but lucky we had two to carry so we made the second portage look a little easier.  The third gorge was a little shorter so it didn’t take long to get to the large rocks separating 3rd and 4th gorges which was our end point and also our lunch stop where we could sit and look out to the 4^th gorge and also watch the freshwater croc we had spotted as we turned up (at least we hope he is a freshie) while we ate.

On the way back we banked our canoes and stopped in at the Lily ponds where we showered under the waterfall amidst a bright rainbow.  We then paddled back at our portage point where Emma and I watched another couple transport their canoe easily down the rapid so we followed their lead and with minimal help from the boys got our canoe where it needed to be.  Unfortunately Paul and Ben had a little more trouble and ended up getting their canoe well jammed between the rock and overhanging branch.  Ever helpful Ben rocked the boat to get it unstuck but instead managed to tip them both out and water quickly filled the canoe.  Emma began panicking, I was trying to get a good photo and couldn’t stop laughing but had to bank our canoe again so I could swim out (fully clothed) to help.  It took Ben a little while to see the funny side since he was feeling responsible but I thought it was hysterical (and all Paul’s fault anyway).  Back on track and a stop at Butterfly canyon then onto the junction between 2nd and 1st.  As we were collecting our yellow canoes to make the final leg we chanced upon a local and member of Nitmiluk Tours staff who graciously took us to the other side of the river in his tinnie and gave us a personal tour of the art work on the rocks there.  This was fantastic but it did mean that when we did get back in our canoes the time was 3.45 and we were supposed to return our canoes by 4.30 (or was it 4?) so it was a power struggle home and that night Paul and I were absolutely spent. But what a great day.

Ben at the waterfall at Lily Ponds

Monday was spent at Edith Falls, about an hours drive to the north of Nitmiluk, and more walking (to take my mind of my aching shoulders).  As always the walk was worth it (only 2 hours this time) and the pools at the top of the falls were so much fun.  We jumped in and let the current take us, jumped out and did it again and again.

Back to the campground and in the pool with the realisation that this may be our last swim for a long while…..